Complaint Review: JD byrider/cnac - pittsburgh Pennsylvania (PA)

I don't know Robert at all, but the information he gave you in his rebuttal is accurate and the real deal. As far as I know, he responds to these reports with factual information in order to clear up any misunderstanding you may have about financing your vehicle. Almost everyone that doesn't want to hear what he has to say comes back with (paraphrased) "you must work for the company".  You can check the facts by doing your own research into vehicle installment loans and default in your state. Make sure you check legitimate resources. 

Some tips to keep in mind now that you have stopped payment on your loan:

1) The lender will send you a letter showing you the cost to repo and auction the vehicle. That letter will also contain the amount received at auction and applied to the outstanding balance of your loan.

2) From your complaint, there will be additional funds due to pay off the loan. It is critical that you pay it before it becomes a judgement against you. Research judgements in your state. In many states they last for 20 years and can be renewed for another 20 years. Some states are 10 years and then can be renewed for another 10 years. Why is that important? Because the judgement lien holder can take any funds you have including funds in the bank or your tax refund until the judgement is satisfied. Also the judgement continues to increase due to interest and fees over those years so the more quickly you pay if off and receive a Satisfaction of Judgement, the better it is for you financially. 

Keep in mind that when you buy a vehicle you are responsible for maintenance and repairs. If you have a warranty, then the warranty will cover whatever the warranty small print says it will cover. In my experience, most warranties are worthless but that's another subject for another time.

Next time you buy a vehicle, go to anywhere else and pay cash. Get a beater for $500 and save up for a better vehicle with cash. You will need to research each purchase. Have a legitimate mechanic inspect whatever vehicle you intent to purchase before you buy it. That way you will know the actual condition of the vehicle and not the condition that the dealership tells you because dealerships are rarely accurate in their assessments. Google "how to buy a vehicle" so you know the appropriate steps. If you do decide to finance, get your financing from a credit union before you ever shop for a car.  The worst thing you can do is have the dealership help you with financing. It is where they really put the screws to you. 

 Robert had to work for the company or being paid the company you are a very RUDE and JUDGEMENTAL person

You didn't buy a lemon, you bought a 10 year old car at the time that is now about 13 years old, and probably has well over 100K miles.

The contract you signed doesn't state that you only have to pay for it when you feel like it. It doesn't matter if it is in perfect shape or falling apart. Until you have paid the loan off in full, you are legally responsible.

If you don't continue to pay for the car they will reposess it.  If they reposess it they will sell it at auction (probably for the $535) and you will still be  legally responsible for the remaining 4K+ balance(actually probably closer to 6K after you add in the repo, tow, and auction fees).  If you fail to pay that you will

eventually be sued and in court the judge will not care what shape the 13 year old car was in, they will care about one thing..the legal contract you signed stating you are financially responsible.  The best you may get out of court is the agreement of some sort of payment plan.

The other result with a Repo is that you will have destroyed any good payment history you had. Meaning you will be with these Sub-Prime dealers and lenders for years to come.