Complaint Review: Purrfect Auto Service - Henderson Nevada

Well did you replace the proportioning valve or not?

Please post here what you finally did, whether or not it's fixed right.

In the previous post when referring to drums..it would be more appropriate that it is "shoes"..and not "pads", but hopefully the point got across nonetheless.

Number one.this is a pick up truck...heavy in the front, light in the rear if not carrying cargo. So..what could cause lockup on the rear brakes in the rain? Almost anything, including the tires and suspension.

Assuming the tires and suspension are good, and this Ranger has rear discs, it could be the proportioning valve. If drums, it could most certainly be the pads or adjustment.

It could also be the parking brake as I mentioned back several posts, or it could be a contributing factor.

This is not something that can be accurately diagnosed on a forum without more info. and even with more info..still no way to diagnose with 100% certainty..we can only offer suggestions.

If you want to attempt this yourself, best bet is to have a friend who has done brake jobs before assist you..and it will certainly come in handy to have another body for brake bleeding..and go to the auto parts store and pick up a Chiltons guide for your year, make and model. Read through the chapter titled "brakes and suspension", it will list all the tools and procedures. And after reading it..then decide if you feel confident to do this yourself. It helps to have the right tools..but it helps even more to have experience, or someone with experience to assist.

it is a little weird it only happens in the rain---if it was the proportioning valve it would be all the time--if in the rain--something is getting moisture and degrading the brakes---i am not there to see but i would suggest a brake flush, wheel cylinders and a hardware kit--maybe even scale back a tad on the e brake

OK, I said I'd help if the shoes were correct, so here goes.

First you need a helper, this can be anyone who will listen and follow directions, second your 1999 is probably metric, so you need the following

1 Quart dot 4 brake fluid(New and sealed)

I set METRIC Flare wrenches (Sears probably,) or you can go in a garage and ask what truck sells tools there (Probably MAC, Snap-on or MATCO all are good tools) a GOOD set will run around 50 bucks.

Next some shop rags(Any parts house ) and finally a drip pan (Plastic or metal makes no difference) same parts house.

Some way to SAFELY lift the truck, (Heavy floor jack and jack stands two stands will do)NO CONCRETE BLOCKS they shatter easily.

And (Of course) a new proportioning valve for your truck)

By now you realize why garages charge so much

OK on with the repair, first you clean around the old valve (Look at the new one for reference, it's usually right under the Master cylinder, and has 5 or more steel Brake lines on it, there's only one, so if it's got a lot of lines that's it, You don't need it spotless just knock off any crud, cleaner the better, now Protect your fender and grille with an old blanket (Unless it's an old rusted fender and Grille, Brake fluid will ruin paint and plastic (melts it) set your catch pan where you can reach it and using the flare wrenches remove all the Pipes(Simply unscrew the nuts, Yup they're special, that's why you need the flare wrenches)

It's also a good idea to loosen or remove the lines at the master Cylinder, they'll bend but it's much easier if you loosen/remove them.

AS  YOU REMOVE LINES PUT THEM IN YOUR NEW CLEAN CATCH PAN, the ones to the brakes will not come loose easily,  so bend them slightly, don't get them dirty or oily.

OK after the lines are all loose remove the bolts holding the Old Proportioning valve and gently lift it out as a complete unit, set in the pan. NOTE LINES FIRST, VALVE BOLTS LAST.

Compare the new and old valve and be d**n sure it's the exact same.

Take the new valve and put the lines on loosely Then bolt it on with the lines in but not tight (A little difficult, but not too hard, now tighten all the lines, they have to all be tight.

NOTE THIS TIME IT'S LINES FIRST BOLTS LAST.

Now the master cylinder has probably leaked dry, so refill it with the Dot 4 .

Now you need your friend, have them sit in the driver's seat and press the brake pedal AS DIRECTED.

You do NOT want to push it all the way to the floor, it'll trip the crash switch and cut off fluid to either the front or rear, it's a b***h to center again so DON'T TRIP IT, the best way is to pump the pedal until you have resistance (It'll still be soft and spongy) then hold steady while you bleed it

NO the engine does NOT need to be running, in fact should not run.

With your friend's foot firmly on the brake pedal slowly loosen any top (OR upper line and let the fluid squirt out, just crack it no big spray, be sure that your friend does not let his foot hit the floor, (Have him Holler when the pedal pressure leaves) Refill the Master cylinder  repump the pedal,and do the same to ALL lines until there's NO air bubbles coming out.

You're almost done, top off the master cylinder one last time and test drive the truck, Good hard pedal means you're done,

Soft or spongy brake pedal means you still have some air in the lines, note the master cylinder also has bleeder crews.

By now you'll be through, unless he brake pedal is still spongy then you need to bleed the brakes at the wheel cylinders. If you must bleed the wheels the jack and stands come into use now, as you'll need to remove the tire you are bleeding(No room) but whatever you do DO NOT TRY TO BLEED WITH THE DRUMS OFF. THEY must BE IN PLACE, start with the farthest wheel and move to the next closest. Example the right rear, then the left rear, the right front and finally the left front.

All done, it should take aout three hours (Allowing for inexpreience) and now you know how. (Best part)

I'd suggest printing this set of directions, you will need them handy.

last but not least, if you're not handy with tools don't try it.

Good Luck.

Jim

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP JIM. THE REAR BRAKES ARE SHOES AND THEY APPEAR TO BE IN THE RIGHT PLACE, BUT LIKE YOU SAID I AM NOT A MECHANIC. THE WHEEL CYLINDERS LOOK OK TOO, VERY MINIMAL MOISTURE AROUND THEM. HOPE THIS HELPS.

That's a warning red flag right there, obviously you're NOT a mechanic.

I highly recommend you do NOT replace it if you're not familiar with Mechanics and are trying to save money.

Having said that, Have you checked the rear brakes as I described? Are they Drum brakes? Are the shoes reversed/wrong?

Answer these questions (please) and I'll walk you through a proportioniing valve replacement. a picture of each side brake assembly with the drum off will tell instantly if anything's wrong

Master Mechanic, Jim

(((REDACTED))) will reach me

(Scammers NOT welcome, I WILL retaliate)

OK. So how hard is it to replace a proportioning valve? What tools do I need? I refuse to go back to purrfect auto, but if i take my truck to another garage, what should I pay in your experience. Thanks for all the help

Tim

I forgot to ask if the rear brakes were drum brakes, if so Pull the rear wheels and be sure there's a shorter brake shoe in the front and a larger,( Longer) shoe in the rear. ( if the shoes are backwards, or the same length, they screwed up)

MUST BE SHORT SHOE FRONT I have found both large shoes on one side and both short shoes on the other side (Inexperienced Mechanics) They must NOT be the same length shoes, or the brakes WILL lock up and slide (Also called "Grabbing")

They could also be backwards with the large shoe in front, and the small shoe in the rear, this will also grab.

Check BOTH SIDES.

if they are rear discs, the Proportioning valve is your problem.

There's a "Proportioning valve"(pressure reducer) in the line from the front to the rear brakes.

It's there because the rears must have less Pressure than the front because of "Weight Transfer" when you stop. (As you stop weight is greater on the front, than the rear)

Looks to me that it's bad, replacement is simple, just replace it with a new one, Bleed the brakes and this SHOULD stop.

Especially on Pick ups with rear drum brakes.

It could be a problem with the proportioning valve..or the drums themselves are worn out/rusted..or the new pads used were cheap. I have heard it can sometimes be caused if the parking brake springs or cables are rusted..this can be easily fixed but the shop needs to know what to look for by following the cables for the P brake from the drums forward and free up where it may be rusted and froze up. This can cause the rear brakes to grab first and lock up.

Granted on all pick up trucks with drums you do need to adjust your driving habits a bit when it's wet..but if you are noticing this problem didn't happen when the truck was newer and does now..obviously there is something worn out..and this shop may not be qualified to diagnose it.